협성엔지니어링 협성엔지니어링

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In an ideal lock, all of the pin holes in the plug would be in perfect alignment with the corresponding holes in the shell, the centerline of the plug would be exactly parallel to that of the shell, and all of the pins would be exactly the same diameter. Other classes of attack, not discussed here but at least as worthy of study and scrutiny, include lock decoding, which is concerned with producing a working key based only on access to the external interface of the lock, lock bypass, which aims to unlatch the underlying locking mechanism without operating the lock at all, and forced entry, which, as the term suggests, involves the destructive application of force to the lock or its surroundings. The multiple peaks allow several, or even all, pin stacks to set simultaneously. Left: The correct key lifts the pin stacks to align the cuts at the shear line. The plug can rotate freely only if the key lifts every pin stack's cut to align at the border between the plug and shell. Left: Cylinder face, the lock's "user interface." Note the keyway, which is cut into the plug, which in turn sits inside the shell.

However, note that because the tumblers are a single piece, sawtooth raking, snap guns, and bump keys are not effective against them. Picks probe and lift the individual pin tumblers through the keyway, while torque tools control the degree and force of plug rotation. In particular note that because the pins are slightly out of alignment, as the plug is turned gently, only the pin stack that is most out of alignment actually prevents further rotation. Note how the wards extend across the front of the pins; this is called a "paracentric" design in locksmithing parlance. Note the border between the plug and shell, which forms the shear line, and the cuts in each pin stack resting within the plug. The rest is just technique -- locating and recognizing the state of each pin stack, manipulating the pins, applying torque to the plug. The basic skills of pin tumbler lock picking include selecting the proper tools, manipulating pins through the keyway, applying torque, and recognizing the state of each pin. Picking tools are designed to perform one of two basic functions: manipulating pins and turning the plug.

If you tried to rotate the plug of such a lock without a key in the keyway, the top pin segment of each pin stack would block the plug at exactly the same number of degrees of rotation; each pin stack would contribute equally to preventing the plug from turning. The top pin of that pin stack will be trapped above the shear line, the bottom pin will fall freely, and now a new pin stack (the next most misaligned one) prevents further rotation. Rotation of the plug within the shell operates the locking mechanism. The disks are connected in sequence via interlocking cams such that one rotation of the dial engages the first disk, two rotations engage the second, and so on. And whatever you do, please don't remove them from the lab without checking with me first! An alternative technique, which I have not seen mentioned in the literature, is to first determine which pin stacks have security pins and which have regular pins (by picking normally and noting which stacks are false set). Many experienced locksmiths and expert lock pickers prefer "home made" tools to the commercial selections, especially for picking unusual and high security locks.

The commercial lever lock mechanism dates back to the early 19th century Chubb lock (and, indeed, to well before). Here, however, tighter tolerances and, in some cases, high-security secondary mechanisms, are more common. For most of the picking methods discussed here, in which tumblers are manipulated one by one, a "hook"-style pick is generally used. This keyway is a bit more "open" (it's intended to allow several different key profiles to fit in it), and so requires the use of a larger pick than the Arrow AR1 keyway does. A few pin tumbler lock products orient the key horizontally in the keyway and use a flat key bitted with variable-depth holes ("dimples") rather than the cuts used for the familiar "sawtooth" key. And of course there is the surest and fastest method of all: the use of the correct key. For example, the method it calls "scrubbing" is called "raking" by almost everyone else (it's not something I suggest you spend much time on, at least at first, by the way).

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